Top Mediterranean Destinations: Mougins

Mougins is like any other quaint French hilltop village, in one way – it boasts picturesque winding streets built around the remains of the old fortified walls leading up to a church, some shops, restaurants and artisan ateliers. However, by virtue of its location, just 15 minutes from Cannes, an extraordinary transformation has taken place over the last eighty years and this hilltop village, once a Ligurian medieval stronghold and home of monks, is now firmly on the international stage for art and gastronomy.

Having visited several times over the years, I returned to Mougins last September because I wanted to understand more about how it had evolved through a thousand years of history to emerge, dripping with cultural sophistication and glamour, in the 21st century.

The metamorphosis of this country girl into movie starlet began, as so often in the best romances, with the attentions of a strong-minded and influential man, none other than Pablo Picasso. When Picasso first encountered Mougins in 1936 he stayed in what is now the Hôtel Les Muscadins where – incorrigible and impulsive artist that he was – he painted upon the walls of his bedroom. Unfortunately, though Picasso was certainly prolific at the time, he wasn’t yet widely recognised so the hapless innkeeper unfortunately insisted that he remove his murals. Nevertheless, Picasso’s relationship with the sleepy but charming village had begun and over the years he introduced his circle of friends, such as Jean Cocteau, Man Ray and Paul Eluard, to its charms.

In 1961 he returned again to Mougins and lived at the Domaine Notre-Dame-de-Vie, where he spent the final 12 years of his life. The quality of light, the spectacular views and the peaceful location, just a short drive from the coast, exerted a strong pull on Picasso. It was not long before a widening circle of writers, artists and celebrities – including Edith Piaf, Yves St Laurent, Francis Picabia,  Jacques Brel and the Duke of Windsor – began to visit for the pleasures of this calm yet cultured oasis, away from the hustle and the crowds of the Riviera.

The reputation of Mougins as a welcoming home for artists developed further with the arrival of French cubist artist and sculptor Fernand Léger who worked at a studio in Mougins’ old village for some years. If you wander along the narrow back streets today, the legacy of these famous artists is evident in the many colourful galleries and shops selling a range of artworks, some of which are appealing while others inevitably are rather lurid and unlikely to win awards – in fact they would probably have Señor Picasso turning in his grave. However, do take time to visit the beautiful restored Lavoir, to see the ever-changing exhibition of local artists.

By contrast, there is no doubting the merits of the Musée de la Photographie André Villers, which is set in a 17th-century building within the village. A visit there is a must, not only to view a remarkable collection of photo portraits of Picasso, but also those depicting many great modernist intellectuals and artists connected with the area. It’s an intimate yet impressive collection, featuring work by Villers as well as many other famous photographers, such as Robert Doisneau, David Douglas Duncan and Lucien Clergueof.

In 2011 a momentous occurrence catapulted the village back onto the international stage, as a destination for serious art lovers. Christian Levett, a hugely successful English hedge-fund entrepreneur, wanted a home for his enormous collection of antiquities, which is understood to be the largest private collection in the world. Levett already owned a villa in Mougins and when he approached the mayor of the village, as the saying goes, a deal was done.

Following the €7 million conversion of a medieval building in the heart of Vieux Mougins, the Musée d’Art Classique et Moderne was opened, to general acclaim. The museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities, which are expertly complemented by and contrasted with the works of contemporary and modern artists and sculptors, such as Matisse, Chagall, Dufy, Cézanne, Rodin and, of course, Picasso. The end result is a tour de force – manageable in size and scale, yet as impressive as many a grand museum in its range and the quality of presentation.

Culinary Greatness

Yet these plaudits and badges of honour in the art world are outstripped by Mougins’ fame as a home of the gastronomic arts. If Picasso proved to be Mougins’ art muse, then the legendary chef Roger Vergé was its culinary father figure and inspiration. In 1969 he opened the restaurant Le Moulin de Mougins, which he later followed with l’Amandier.

Success came quickly, a Michelin star in 1970, a second two years later and the ultimate accolade, three stars, were bestowed in 1974. The world duly took note and Mougins was then well and truly on the map: celebrities, film stars, entrepreneurs and politicians came to court, to experience the nouvelle cuisine du soleil, enjoy the ambiance (original art adorned the walls of the Moulin) and just be part of the scene. Vergé became the first celebrity chef in an era when France reigned supreme as the culinary world capital.

After something of a lull in the 1990s and the early years of this century, things are on the move again. Today, the vieux village of Mougins boasts no fewer than eleven restaurants and is firmly back on the map, setting trends in the world of international gastronomy. The new determination to reach previously exalted heights is epitomised by the annual Festival Internationale de la Gastronomie et des Arts de Vivres. If that is too much of a mouthful, by all means use its alternative, snappier title: Les Étoiles de Mougins.

The festival kicked off in 2006, paying suitable homage to Roger Vergé. The great man, now retired, was honoured by the attending generations of chefs, the up-and-coming youngsters welcoming the guest star appearances of Vergé and other masters, such as Ducasse, Bocuse and Le Notre. In subsequent years, the event has taken more shape and purpose, with the village converted into a series of tented pavilions and open-air spaces for impromptu tastings, workshops, formal cooking demonstrations and a host of stalls and sponsors. There are now competitions for the coveted prizes of best young and amateur chef, and the atmosphere is always alive with anticipation as cooks and gourmets arrive from around the world.

Last September, just a day before the opening of the annual Les Étoiles de Mougins, I found myself at the new and very glittery Restaurant Paloma in Mougins, dining with Dominique Fantino, the Head of Tourism for the village, and Serge Gouloumès, a Michelin-starred chef from the nearby Le Mas Candille. On the village streets just outside the restaurant there was a palpable buzz in the air as preparations were in full swing with marquees and tents going up, red carpets being rolled out, and keen young tourism executives rushing around, clipboards and smart-phones in hand.

Meanwhile, the evening at Restaurant Paloma provided an insight into the rarefied atmosphere of ambitious young chefs and fine French cuisine. The menu was refined and elaborate, with a veritable circus performance of culinary tricks, amuse-bouches, foams, mousselines and flaming mini cornettos. On several occasions, Paloma’s head chef Nicolas Decherchi appeared from the kitchen with his retinue and eagerly awaited comments from our table, especially from chef Gouloumès, who was clearly the man to impress.

The omens were evidently very good and bookings will be harder to come by in future because Decherchi’s skills have since been rewarded with a 2014 Michelin star. During the meal, one of the new recruits to the Tourism Office also appeared at our table and, to my surprise, the ebullient Monsieur Fantino decided to give an impromptu lecture to her on Mougins – past, present and future – in short, their mission. It became clear that this is now much more than a village, rather it is a personality, even a brand. Pleasurable and slightly surreal as the evening was, it nevertheless gave a glimpse into the future of this unusual village – to become an internationally loved and revered destination for French fine dining and art de vivre.

Looking at Mougins in the bright noonday sun, you can see how this country girl has been nipped and tucked, manicured and polished, made-over, preened and coiffeured until nothing is out of place. And you start to wonder if you might be more comfortable in your old jeans, moseying around some rusticated village away from the Côte d’Azur gloss. But now it’s the softer light of early evening and you are falling under her spell again. Maybe it’s the scent of white jasmine in the air or the mellow jazz emanating from a cafe by the fountain. Maybe it’s watching the rather elegant and interesting people arriving for dinner as you sip a glass of Provençal rosé. Maybe it could be the lights of Cannes twinkling on the distant bay, while the rose-purple dusk settles like a shawl across the mountains of the Esterel Massif. Qu’importe? Let yourself be seduced – it’s what Mougins does best.

Mougins Essentials

What’s On

Festival Internationale de la Gastronomie et des Arts de Vivres, September 19-21 2014

Where to Go

Musée de la Photographie André Villers, Porte Sarrazine, 06250 Mougins. Open daily, 10am-12.30pm & 2pm-7pm. Weekends and holidays, 11am-7pm. Closed Monday. Entry: free. Tel: +33 4 93 75 85 67

Musée d’Art Classique de Mougins, 5 rue des Mûriers, 06250 Mougins, Open daily, 10am-6pm. Entry: €12 adults, €7 concessions. Tel: +33 4 93 75 18 65

Where to Eat

Restaurant Paloma, 47 avenue du Moulin de la Croix, 06250 Mougins. Tel: +33 4 92 28 10 73

Where to Stay

Le Mas Candille, Blvd Clément Rebuffel, 06250 Mougins, Tel: +33 4 92 28 43 43

Golf

Royal Mougins Golf Club, 424 avenue du Roi, 06250 Mougins, Tel: +33 4 92 92 49 79

Information

Office de Tourisme de Mougins, 39 place des Patriotes, 06250, Mougins. Tel: +33 4 92 92 14 00

From France Today magazine