Montpellier: Folia

When seeking winter sun in France, Montpellier, in Languedoc-Roussillon, is a wonderful destination. Not only is it one of the most popular holiday cities among the French themselves, it’s also young, lively ,endowed with some excellent museums, and the local restaurant scene just keeps getting better and better. The latest find is Folia, at the Château de Flaugergues, a charming 18th-century château and wine estate run by Count Henri de Colbert and his family. Open for lunch only from Monday to Friday, the relaxed, good-value restaurant features the delicious market-driven cooking of young chef Thierry Alix, who formerly had his own restaurant in Sète. Alix’s menus change almost daily, but a few recent offerings included brandade de morue made with artichoke mousseline instead of potatoes; leek velouté sparked up with an Espelette pepper cream quenelle; sautéed lamb with olives garnished with creamy polenta and beet mousse; and poached orange with white chocolate ganache—all original and delicious. Plan to visit the château’s spectacular gardens for a post-prandial stroll, too.

1744 ave Albert Einstein, Montpellier. 04.99.52.66.35. Three-course prix-fixe lunch menu €19.50 per person without wine. website

Originally published in the January 2012 issue of France Today; updated in June 2012

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry forParis is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com. Find it in the France Today Bookstore.