Irouléguy Wine

There are only a handful of producers in the appellation, one of which is a co-operative. Irouléguy was hit hard by the phylloxera epidemic and, due to its isolated location, was slow to recover from this and later world events. But it’s this same isolation that served to preserve its originality. Here flourish the red varieties of Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet, try Domaine Brana’s Cuvée Bizi Berri – a moody brew of the rare Arrouya and Erremaxaoua grape varieties, with a bit of Cabernet Franc. These grapes produce spicy, tannic, well-structured reds needing at least five years of cellaring, and refreshing, aromatic rosés. These are proper rosés, the sort that aren’t overly-cloying and sweet, but which are spicy, peppery and structured enough to either be sipped by the pool or handle an entire meal. If you dislike rosés, these could change your mind. The refreshingly acidic and clean white wines are issued from Petit Courbu and the Petit and Gros Mansengs varieties.

The oldest producer in the appellation is the Domaine Ilarria which, when owner Peio Espil decides that the year is good enough, produces a dark concoction of dense black cherry and spices named Cuvée Bixintxo. Otherwise, we must content ourselves with his delicious rosé and white wines. Château Petrus’s wine-maker, Jean-Claude Berrouet, is originally Basque and has returned to make his own wines. Berrouet’s white Herri Mina is coming along nicely. Domaine Etxegaraya’s Cuvee Aitaina is delicious and Domaine Arretxea’s red Haitza and white Hegoxuri are both elegant, racy wines.

Perfect Partners

Of course, the wines are the perfect match for the local produce and its cuisine – nature’s bedfellows. Both the sea and the mountains offer us their delicacies: Ossau-Iraty cheese, Jambon de Bayonne, chorizo from Pamplona, red peppers from Espelette, cherry jam, asparagus, artichokes, grilled meats, fresh seafood, gâteau Basque, piperade, foie gras, corn bread… and more. Come here to surf, swim or sail; to have a tryst with Lady Luck at the casinos and dance all night; to play golf or pelota, listen to jazz or watch a bullfight; and to visit the pintxos (tapas) bars from Saint Jean de Luz to San Sebastian… but please don’t neglect to venture into the mist-shrouded peace of the mountains and discover a part of France, and its wines, that still proudly retains its individuality and does things in its own way, in its own time.

Wine Contacts

Producers, négociants (merchants) and the cave coóperative for Irouléguy, and where to source wines in the U.S.