After cooking with Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, chef Jean-Marie Baudic returned to his native Saint-Brieuc and opened his own restaurant. He’s part of a trend that explains why the food in Brittany is so good these days—the province’s most ambitious young chefs go out into the world for a while, but come home to set up shop on their own. Passionately devoted to local seasonal produce, Baudic changes his menus regularly, often including such ethereal compositions as asparagus with tuna, citrus fruit and rose petals, or fresh cod with baby peas, turnips and raw button mushrooms.

5 rue Palasne de Champeaux, Saint-Brieuc, €45 per person without wine.

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House.

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Originally published in the July/August 2011 issue of France Today