Gilles Tournadre, one of Normandy’s most famous chefs, not only cooks at his two-star restaurant Gill in Rouen, but he has also recognized the local trend towards easy-going and affordable dining by opening the nearby Le 37, a fashionable good-value bistrot, in partnership with his former second chef Sylvain Nouin. Recent highlights of their regularly changing menu included a tarte Tatin of beets and onions with mozzarella and smoked duck salad to start, and veal shoulder caramelized with spices and served with horseradish-spiked mashed potatoes.
Le 37 37 rue Saint Etienne des Tonneliers, Rouen. 02.35.70.56.65. Menus €19–€24; à la carte €38. website 
Prices are approximate, per person without wine.
Originally published in the March 2011 issue of France Today