Ever since it opened May 2010, the carefully studied and tastefully decorated Ralph’s, a pocket of American gastronomy in the new Ralph Lauren mega-boutique in Saint Germain des Prés, has been taken by storm. Why? For one thing, it serves a well-heeled crowd of stylish Parisians exactly what they believe to be “American” food from a menu—planned by well-known New York City chef Danny Meyer—that recalls 1960s country-club dining room fare: jumbo shrimp and Maryland-style crab cakes; lobster salad; a round-up of burgers, the best of which is the Ralph’s burger made with pasture-grazed, hormone-free Angus beef from the designer’s Colorado ranch; and fried chicken or grilled salmon with seasonal vegetables. If the kitchen is able, the prices are extremely high, but that hasn’t prevented the courtyard garden terrace from being packed to the rafters every night.

173 blvd Saint Germain, 6th, €70 per person without wine

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. Find Hungry for Paris and more in our bookstore.

Originally published in the July/August 2010 issue of France Today; updated in Aug 2011

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