Les Affranchis
One of the best examples of the current Parisian revival of the neighborhood bistrot is the new Les Affranchis. It’s a cozy, friendly place with a lot of character, built on the avid flea-market trawls of its young owners, low lighting, attentive service and the delicious cooking of young chef Pierre Petit, whose career has included stints at the Hôtel du Palais in Biarritz, the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco, Ledoyen, Alain Ducasse’s Rech and the wonderful Beurre Noisette in Paris. Petit’s ever-changing blackboard menu consistently demonstrates his love of fresh seasonal produce, technical precision and wily gastronomic imagination. Recent choices included a first-rate terrine de campagne and an excellent Gallic take on a Caesar salad—a coddled egg on neatly trimmed lettuce in a tangy, creamy sauce with Parmesan shavings. Roast cod came with fennel bulb in “carbonara” style—a brilliant idea—and maigre, an Atlantic fish unfortunately known as croaker in English, was prepared à la Basquaise with chopped piquillo pepper and toasted pine nuts, along with delicious sweet potato fries. Both the cheese course and the rice pudding topped with pineapple compote could have been better, but the rest was excellent, and it’s a good bet for the great atmosphere and easygoing prices.
5 rue Henri Monnier, 9th, 01.45.26.26.30. Lunch menu €18; dinner €25 two courses, €32 three courses
Prices are per person without wine.
Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com. Find Hungry for Paris and more in the France Today Bookstore.
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