Using mostly Breton produce, young chef Antoine Loncle’s excellent and reasonably priced contemporary bistrot cooking has made this cozy, casual little spot one of the most popular tables in seaside Saint-Malo. The menu changes often but recently has included such dishes as rougets in a light saffron-spiked seafood jus and lightly caramelized baby squid risotto.

3 place du Poncel, Saint-Malo, 02.99.19.57.26. Fixed-price lunch €16, à la carte €25–€40.

Prices are approximate, per person without wine.

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com

Find Hungry for Paris and more in the France Today Bookstore: www.francetoday.com/store

Originally published in the July/August 2011 issue of France Today

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