With the arrival of a new owner, Le Bar à Huîtres, a mini-chain quartet of Paris fish-and-oyster houses, has once again become a very good destination for serious seafood lovers. Gary Dorr, son of Willy Dorr, well-known for his Bistro & Compagnie chain of prix-fixe bistrots, including the Bistro de Breteuil and Bistro des Deux Théâtres, has completely revamped the menu here; it now offers a terrific variety of pedigreed bivalves including, among others, Prat ar Coum from Brittany, Gillardeau from Marennes and—a first for Paris—Corsican oysters from the Etang de Diana. There’s also an appealing assortment of mostly wild, rather than farmed, fish—the fresh cod with aïoli and the sole meunière are both recommended. All four branches are conveniently open daily, and the service is notably friendly.

33 blvd Beaumarchais, 3rd,; 33 rue Saint Jacques, 5th,; 112 blvd du Montparnasse, 14th,; 69 ave de Wagram, 17th, €50 per person without wine.

Originally published in the February 2011 issue of France Today; updated August 2011

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