Recently awarded a Michelin star, La Condesa, an intimate restaurant in Paris’s 9th arrondissement, is a true gem. Opened two years ago, La Condesa is named after the neighbourhood in Mexico City where Chef/Owner Indra Carrillo spent his youth. This highly talented globe-trotting chef, an Institut Paul Bocuse graduate and winner of the 2016 Gault and Millau Young Chef Award, learned to cook from the great French Toques, including Paul Bocuse at Paul Bocuse Collonges, Yannick Alléno at Le Meurice, Eric Frechon at Le Bristol, and Pascal Barbot at l’Astrance. His experience beyond French cuisine includes training with Annie Fiolde in Florence, Toru Okuda in Tokyo and Yoshihiro Murata in Kyoto.
The idea of La Condesa, to quote Chef Carrillo, “is to invite customers to a culinary experience of the highest level.”
Once seated in the contemporary, sophisticated salle, you will not find an à la carte menu. Instead, your journey follows the chef for a three-, four- or six-course meal. A printed guide informs guests of the culinary adventure to come, a synthesis of Chef Carrillo and his team’s “culinary experience, travels, and encounters to date.” What a voyage it is! During the evening I travelled from the Mexico of his childhood to the international destinations that have influenced his cuisine. Each course is a feast of the senses, dazzling with creativity in taste and presentation.
I started with crispy sunflower chips, sandwiched together with a thin sunflower seed paste. I continued with another starter of a lacy corn tostada, topped with a dollop of lighter-than-air goat cheese and herb dusting, plus a coriander flower. An array of subtle tastes continued with a fresh and lovely bonito served with celery, granita and other market fresh ingredients. This was followed by scallops presented in a coffee emulsion, and exquisitely prepared duck, each dish showcasing contrasts in textures and styles. Most importantly, it was delicious.
The charming staff, including the owner/chef, greet, serve and illuminate the menu choices, ensuring a delightful gastronomic experience from start to finish. Through his imaginative and inventive Parisian cuisine, Chef Carrillo takes you on a perfect adventure, where every element marks a fusion of cultures. I can’t wait to return for my next “voyage” with this inspired chef.
La Condesa Restaurant
Dinner Tuesday – Saturday and Lunch on Friday.
Reservations can be made directly on the website.
Lunch priced from 42 euros.
17 rue Rodier, 9th Arrondissement
33(0) 1 53 20 94 90