Charming Frédéric Hubig-Schall is one of the best young restaurateurs in Paris, proprietor of Astier and the Café Moderne, so I was keen to try Jeanne A, his third address—an épicerie à manger, a combination gourmet grocery and bistrot right next to Astier in the 11th arrondissement.

Despite its chic contemporary design, Jeanne A is a relaxed and friendly place. Seated around a big oak table, our group started with assorted charcuterie, followed by perfectly roasted duck and chicken from Astier’s rotisserie, served with a wonderful galette de pommes de terre and a mesclun salad enlivened with fresh herbs. Wines here are sold by the magnum and the carafe—we drank a fine Saint Chinian from Borie la Vitarèle that was perfect straight through to the excellent farmhouse cheeses—among them brie, reblochon, comté and several different goat cheeses—that concluded our dinner. It’s a terrific place to come with a group for a very happy and satisfying feed of first-rate French comfort food.

42 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th, €30 per person, without wine.

Originally published in the December 2010 issue of France Today, updated in November 2011

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