Kaito, Four Seasons Megève

The recently opened 55-room Four Seasons Megève has brought one of the most charming mountain resort towns in Europe into the 21st century by eschewing the dated trope of Savoyard folklore so common here and resetting the pendulum of Alpine luxury with a superb spa and ski-in-ski-out location, making this famously gourmand village even more of a destination for food lovers than ever before.

If chef Julien Gatillon does superb contemporary French cooking at the hotel’s Michelin two-star 1920 restaurant, the real surprise is his brilliant Japanese-Nikkei-Savoyard table Kaito (Nikkei is Peruvian-Japanese cuisine).

An entrée of tuna tartare at Kaito. Photo: Matthieu Cellard

The lunch I had in this handsome dining room was actually one of the best meals I ate anywhere in 2018. Dining with friends, we ordered a bunch of dishes, which we shared. Standouts included a very clever reblochon cheese tempura with wild blueberry jam – a wonderfully logical hybrid plate because it reprised the theme of melted cheese in the Alps in a lighter, fresher way – roasted aubergines with miso sauce, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño, beef ribs cooked on a robata (Japanese grill) with ají panca pepper and potato crisps, octopus with celeriac purée and Savoyard blue cheese, and coriander rice with prawns.

Every dish was outstanding, and this table is a terrific addition to the restaurant roster in Megève, which is a delightful place to go hiking in the spring when the slopes are filled with wildflowers.

373 chemin des Follières, 74120 Megève. Tel. +33 (0)4 50 21 12 11. Average à la carte €65. www.fourseasons.com/megeve

From France Today magazine

As well as running Kaito, chef Julien Gatillon holds two Michelin stars at the Four Seasons’ 1920 restaurant. Photo: Matthieu Cellard