Casual eating in the Spanish-style format, with a variety of small-plate sampler dishes to accompany a bottle of wine, is popular this spring. Deep in the Latin Quarter, the new Dans les Landes … Mais à Paris is the second table of gifted young chef Julien Duboué, whose first restaurant, Afaria, is a deservedly big hit farther out in the 15th arrondissement. Here Duboué offers some 30 different sampler-size plates with a southwestern accent, including Basque-style razor clams and mussels, fried squid with sweet peppers, caramelized pork breast, and smoked duck breast with polenta “fries”. It’s a great place for dining in a group, and it’s been packed since the day it opened.

119 bis rue Monge, 5th, €30 per person without wine


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Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House.

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