Caen: A Contre Sens

The city of Caen was badly damaged during World War II, but today it’s the thriving industrial center of Normandy. The moving and quite fascinating Mémorial de Caen, a museum and monument devoted to the history of the war, should be seen by everyone traveling anywhere near, and in fact is a destination in itself. But Caen has also emerged as a great magnet for les fines gueules.

Young chef Anthony Caillot’s restaurant A Contre-Sens is a handsome place, with exposed stone walls, beamed ceilings and cyclamen colored chairs. Caillot takes pride in serving contemporary Norman cooking with an international touch. As a starter, his Norman oysters are cooked in their shells with seaweed butter and a crust of apples and hazelnuts, and his main courses include dishes like slow-cooked veal with Créances carrots seasoned with yuzu and garnished with veal sweetbreads and mushrooms spiked with masala, an Indian spice blend. Reservations are essential here.

A Contre-Sens 8 rue des Croisiers, Caen. 02.31.97.44.48. Menus €17–€21 (lunch), €44 (dinner); à la carte €50. website

Prices are approximate, per person without wine.

Originally published in the March 2011 issue of France Today