Boismorand: Auberge des Templiers

I can’t think of a more delicious destination for a quick trip out of Paris than a night or two at the charming Auberge des Templiers in Boismorand in the Sologne, a woodland region south of the river Loire. One of the original eight Relais & Châteaux, this wonderful inn has cozy rooms and several big fireplaces in its attractive public lounges. Nearby, Nemours, Montargis and Gien are all small charming towns well worth exploring. On the other hand, you might also just bring a good book and spend the afternoon looking forward to dinner, since the dining room here is one of the most underrated one-star restaurants in France. At this time of the year, produce from the Sologne forests takes pride of place on the menu, including a superb game terrine with an autumn-fruit chutney; delicate wild mushroom ravioli in truffle jus; and a delicious roast wild duck. There is plenty of choice for those who aren’t wild about game, too, including dishes such as caramelized scallops with smoked root vegetables or veal sweetbreads with wild-mushroom-stuffed penne. No one should miss the magnificent and very rare soufflé Rothschild, which is just as rich as it sounds. Charming service and a brilliant selection of moderately priced Loire Valley wines rounds out the pleasure of a meal at this great French institution.

Les Bezards, Boismorand, 02.38.31.80.01. €80, fixed-price lunch menu €45. Prices are per person without wine. website

Originally published in the January 2010 issue of France Today

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