A lovely meal at Bistrot des Alpilles in Saint-Rémy de Provence.
A lovely meal at Bistrot des Alpilles in Saint-Rémy de Provence. Photo: Mary Kay Seales

I recently had the great pleasure of visiting a beautiful and luxurious Hôtel de Charme in Provence. The setting and the grounds were spectacular, the rooms with French linens and views of the gardens stunning, and the swimming pool, my dream come true. I wanted to chain myself to the bedpost so I wouldn’t have to leave at checkout time.

This lovely place in the heart of Provence also features a gourmet restaurant with a celebrated chef. Of course, I booked dinner there with my travelling companions, which we looked forward to, and worked for, with a long afternoon swim.

The service here was impeccable, and after being seated, we were handed lovely embossed menus with cream-coloured paper, a note from the chef, and the choices of two dining experiences. It was rather complicated, but interesting, and we finally settled on various courses of “sel” and “sucre.”

The other diners were very quiet, though the room was full. It was very formal and not quite in character with the rest of the grounds which were warm and inviting. We could watch the chef and his crew in their choreographed preparation of our plates.

There were several amuse-bouche plates served before our main courses, all beautiful works of art with flowers and foams arranged perfectly to create a feast for the eyes.

About halfway into the meal, one of my companions remarked, “It’s really beautiful. It just doesn’t taste very good.” That broke the spell we were all in, trying to figure out if we were supposed to like these mysterious foods on our plates.

We had a good laugh and wondered if everyone else in the room was in the same predicament. After all, this is a celebrated chef. This is supposed to be wonderful, right? But there were no “oohs” and “ahs” at this restaurant. And although the service was superb and the wine, delightfully crisp and flavorful, it was overall a disappointing meal.

Just to be clear, I’m not an unsophisticated diner. I’ve eaten at some of the finest restaurants in New York, Paris and Los Angeles. Still I found myself wondering at this restaurant if I just didn’t get it.

In the end, I decided that we all need to trust ourselves more when it comes to food as art. If it doesn’t taste good, no matter how artful or expensive, perhaps we should just admit it.

After leaving this lush Provençal hotel, we stopped in the little town of Saint-Rémy de Provence for lunch at a little bistrot. For a fraction of the cost of our dinners, we had plates of fresh tomatoes and burrata with basil and pesto, all drizzled with olive oil. With a chilled glass of their house white, this meal was to die for.

So from now on, I think I mostly want my art on the wall or a pedestal, and maybe not on my plate. Forget the foams, the flowers and the interesting dishes. I’ll take a beautifully arranged plate of burrata and fresh tomatoes in Saint-Rémy any day.

Photo taken at Bistrot des Alpilles in Saint-Rémy de Provence

(Visited 231 times, 1 visits today)

7 COMMENTS

  1. To the author, just for the record. My wife and I have been to France more that 60 times and love it all, including the food both simple and more sophisticated. In June on a beautiful sunny Sunday we had the great joy of dining at Bistrot des Alpilles. It was unquestionably one of the greatest single culinary pleasure of our 3-week trip. Perhaps the chef and brigade were having an extraordinary bad night or else, possibly, you and your friends do really prefer the simpler pleasures (and more moderate prices) of lesser restaurants.

  2. I totally agree!
    I, too, have eaten in many ‘fine’ restaurants… always expensive, sometimes missing the mark.
    In fact, our most memorable meal was on a windy, rainy Normandy night in Honfleur about 6 years ago.
    We ducked into a charming Bistro where the fireplace was roaring, there were only about 10 tables in the whole place, and we ordered from the small blackboard menu.
    Wow, to this day, I still can recall the feeling of being transported to a different world.

  3. It truly is an art to choose a good restaurant in France, or maybe a problem of luck. I have eaten at several Michelin starred restaurants that surely enough were good (and with a feel pampered atmosphere!) but generally I found that the restaurants next to the farmer’s market places (in Toulouse were I live there are a couple on top or the Victor Hugo market) are more to my taste (and my valet)!

  4. In the last three weeks we ate lunch at three Michelin one star restaurants in The SW of France. All three showed off their ability with foam in the amuse-bouche course but fortunately when it came down to the serious part of the meal they reverted to the classic touches with just a little fou-fou in the decoration of the plates. Hopefully the Michelin inspectors will start to add more scoring weight to impact of the meal on the tongue rather than the eye.

LEAVE A REPLY