Au Clocher de Montmartre

Up in Montmartre, shrewd Mauritius-born chef Antoine Heerah, whose fine restaurant Chamarré Montmartre showcases the flavors of his native Indian Ocean island, offers another take on the new neighborhood bistrot themes of affability, good value and contemporary French cooking at Au Clocher de Montmartre. The smartly decorated spot might also launch a welcome trend by extending customary Paris dining hours—it’s open daily and serves nonstop from noon to 10:30 pm. The terrific menu is mix-and-match—you can come by for a cèpe omelette and a glass of wine, or settle in for a longer and more leisurely feed of dishes like butternut squash soup and oxtail-stuffed Roscoff onions.

10 rue Lamarck, 18th, 01.42.64.90.23. €40 per person without wine.

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com.

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Originally published in the March 2012 issue of France Today