Rue Keller
When it comes to style, it’s pretty much unanimous that Parisians put the rest of us to shame. A less-noted fact about Parisian flair is how genuinely individual it is. Parisiennes go out of their way to find that unique piece to fire up more prosaic basics. So where do chic Parisiennes go for those statement finds that won’t be seen on a hundred other women? Simple: one of the city’s hidden shopping streets, like rue Keller.
Spanning a single block between rue de la Roquette and rue de Charonne in the young and trendy 11th arrondissement, this tiny enclave has long harbored serious young artists, architects and designers who pioneered the area more than a decade ago, drawn by its deep bohemian roots, its energy and camaraderie, and its affordable workspaces. An epicenter of gay life in the 1970s and ’80s, the street now flaunts its louche appeal in many ways, from politically subversive bookstores to saucy fetish boutiques, art galleries, manga shops and funky cafés. Today rue Keller is well known among the fashion intelligentsia and it’s easy to see why.
Anne Willi (No. 13) passed up more established commercial neighborhoods for a storefront and atelier on rue Keller, becoming the first fashion designer on the street—a risky move in 1998, when rue Keller was off the commercial radar. Identifying with the artists and other free spirits on hand, Willi was willing to chance it. One of her strengths, and an imperative of her fashion philosophy, is her collaborative instinct. She works closely with other designers and artists in her seasonal collections, and stresses that each piece can be worn differently, depending on desire and whim. With a signature color for each season—scarlet this winter—Willi’s collections range from crisp woolens and structured silhouettes to flowing silk chemises. All work well for every day and easily shift from day to night, like the gorgeous pair of silvery Ultrasuede trousers that upped and walked out the door with me. 01.48.06.10.44
Gaëlle Barré (No. 17) also opened on rue Keller in 1998, after stints in couture and prêt-à-porter. With a fondness for retro chic, Barré aims at creating collections that are distinctive, individual and totally current. She is just as likely to offer a striking oversizeprint dress in saturated gray on white as a delicate floral smock top in sherbet tones. Adventurous as her colors may be, the clothes are always in good taste, although with surprising elements, like wide patch pockets on an A-line dress, or a hint of chartreuse under a cape of deepest indigo. She uses the same fabrics for her adorable children’s line, but with kid-friendly designs. 01.43.14.63.02
Across the street, Moloko (No. 18) draws an eclectic crowd. For designers Virginie and Jean-Jacques Weil the key words are imagination and artistry; they’re more than willing to buck the trends in order to convey their vision. Harem pants? Why not? In supple, buttery silk they pretty much work for anyone. There is a certain opulence to the collection, which spills abundantly from color-coded racks, characterized by hemlines of all lengths, lots of black and deep gray, punctuated with rich jewel colors, draped fabrics and unusual touches, like gathered flowers at the neckline and ruched or ruffled edges—sophisticated, feminine clothes that work for women from their 20s on up. 01.43.38.84.01
That also goes for Marci N’oum (No. 1), where for the last four years Jean-Claude N’Doumbé has catered to stylish women of all ages, shapes and sizes. The gallant N’Doumbé clearly adores women and wants them to feel bien dans leur peau as well as in their clothes. His winter 2010/11 collection builds on fundamental pieces: a marine-blue silk blouson can be worn alone or layered with a form-fitting vest or cinch-waisted blazer. Classics—like a black minidress with a plunging gray satin neckline—are great on their own, or can be dressed up with a splash of color. Most of all, according to N’Doumbé, the clothes are about volume; how they move with the wearer to provide comfort and style all at once. Not a bad equation. 06.63.16.60.23
Of all the rue Keller boutiques, Des Petits Hauts (No. 5) has gone the most mainstream. While the flagship boutique-atelier opened here in 2000, the line has been so successful it’s now scattered throughout France, with eight boutiques in Paris alone. The success story makes perfect sense, since the label combines chic, functional looks and high-quality fabrics with a sense of fun. The collection ranges from featherweight cotton tank tops with a sprinkling of tiny beads at the shoulders to cropped leather jackets in pastel colors and flattering belted coats. Among my favorites are menswear-style shirts in softest cotton, vivid woolen plaids expertly cut to highlight womanly curves, and beautifully tailored tuxedo trousers with a wrap belt. Every piece is discreetly embellished with a tiny golden star for good luck. 01.43.38.14.39
All these shops carry signature or complementary accessories, including bags, shoes and limited-edition jewelry. Several also offer childrens wear. Prices are generally reasonable up and down the street, ranging from about €30 for a cotton tank to €250–€400 for a leather jacket or wool coat. Although the boutiques usually open at either 11:00 or 11:30, Tuesday through Saturday, they are not always punctual. Better to go after lunch.
Originally published in the November 2010 issue of France Today.
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