L’Office

DO NOT USE. THIS HAS A NEW CHEF/OWNER AS OF DEC 2011 A LA CARTE

L’Office is a very good contemporary French bistrot in a quiet neighborhood near the Drouot auction house in the 9th arrondissement. The storefront space has negligible decor, but that doesn’t bother the devoted regulars—a mix of bankers, antiques dealers and arty types who come for the wonderful market cooking cuisine offered on a brief blackboard menu. Highlights of a recent lunch included starters of grilled green asparagus with coppa and a coddled egg—first-rate comfort food—and an excellent carrot velouté brightened by fresh ginger and garnished with crunchy radish slices and a few rounds of goat cheese. Next came main courses of sliced peppered steak on mesclun with baby potatoes, and trofie (a fresh Ligurian pasta made with no eggs) dressed with a delicious ragout of squid gently stewed in red wine with black olives. Livelier at lunch than at dinner, L’Office is moderately priced, and there’s a good wine list too.

3 rue Richer, 9th, 01.47.70.67.31. €35

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Prices are per person, without wine.

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Originally published in the October 2010 issue of France Today.