Albion

Albion, in the 10th arrondissement, is a delicious example of the new-style neighborhood bistrot in Paris, because owners Hayden Clout, the barman/sommelier, and Matt Ong, the chef, have conceived a warm, friendly, affordable place intended to serve the neighborhood rather than draw people from across town. They found a great-looking space in the rapidly gentrifying area near the Gare du Nord and the Gare de l’Est, and renovated it with open wine shelves and well-spaced tables. It’s invariably packed at noon with office workers, while trendy types take over in the evening. In addition to smiling service and reasonable prices, what everyone appreciates is the top quality of the changing-daily chalkboard menu. Good examples of Ong’s cooking include cod with baby clams and bacon; roasted duck breast with root vegetables; and homey desserts like rice pudding with raspberry compote.

80 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 10th, 01.42.46.02.44. €40 per person without wine.

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com. Find Hungry for Paris and more in the France Today Bookstore

Originally published in the March 2012 issue of France Today