Real Champagne

Grower Renaissance

For generations, Champagne’s growers dedicated themselves to creating fine wines which speak of their terroir, only to sell them to the maisons, who then dilute their efforts. Slowly, as economic conditions have permitted, the growers started producing their own-label wine, rather than selling. When there was a glut of Champagne on the market and the prices of their grapes fell, this seemed a great idea – they made more money by not selling to the maisons.

In 1904, Le Syndicat General des Vignerons de la Champagne (SGV) was established and, more recently, 2001 saw Les Champagnes de Vignerons (LCV) introduced to promote the growers’ image. ‘Grower Champagnes’ are now successful – the world’s wine-lovers have acquired a taste for the ‘real stuff’. However, harvests have been hit by harsh weather, yields are down and grape prices are up. Consequently, the growers are tempted to sell again, rather than face small margins for their quality, low-yield product as they compete against the cut-price brands. This temptation may prove too strong for some, let’s hope not.

If you need convincing, try Henri Mandois’ Brut Nature. With zero dosage and a minimum four years of ageing, it possesses a fresh, salty nose, solid extracts and a dry, crisp fruitiness. Or his Cuvée Victor 2002 from specially selected plots, it is a petit dejeuner in a glass. Then there is Alexandre Penet’s Cuvée Extra Brut 2008. Mandois uses mostly Pinots and it is meaty, corpulent and very sophisticated. A Bergere’s Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru has a higher dosage but is still balanced and fresh, with Chardonnay notes of citrus and brioche, mint and white flowers.

And then there is Ariston Aspasie with his Rosé – a unique and truly stunning bouquet of fossils, sandy soil and almonds. The nose, which just keeps opening and evolving, envelopes you in a wave of minerality. His Vintage 2006 is perfection.

So the next time you raise a glass, make it a real one.

Decoding the Label Jargon

There are many different combinations in which Champagne grapes can be grown and vinified. Here are the explanations of the label terms.

Négociant-Manipulant (NM): We see this on the label of the large Champagne houses or merchants who source their grapes from a wide variety (as much as 80 growers) and then vinify under their brand.

Coopérative-Manipulant (CM): When a group of small growers blend their grapes collectively and make a wine under one or more brands. They are usually involved in the wine-making too.

Sociéte des Récoltants (SR): When a small number of growers get together and share the same winery but make their own labels. This designation differs from a Coopérative-Manipulant because the growers keep their grapes separate, make their own brand, and are directly involved in the winemaking process.

Récoltant-Coopérateur (RC): This is when a grower provides grapes to a Coopérative- Manipulant and they make the wine on the grower’s behalf, under the grower’s own brand but without their involvement.

Récoltant-Manipulant (RM): This is a Champagne which is both grown and made by the same producer.