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Held by Richard the Lion-Hearted at the end of the 12th century, Trôo prospered due to its strategic high lookout and fortifications. In fact, during the 11th and 12th centuries its inhabitants numbered around 4,500, the majority of whom lived in caves. Today, with a population of less than 300, Trôo is still evolving, attracting Parisians, Londoners and even a few Americans with literal holes-in-the-wall. Running water came to Trôo in 1972, and electricity and telephones have brought the subterranean town up to present-day standards. Many of the cave accommodations are curiously cutting-edge these days, equipped with broadband Internet for their connected owners and guests. Kate Kilbourne is a San Francisco-based writer and website director who lives part of the year in Trôo. Getting there Sleeps B&B Cave Cave Yuccas Troglogîtes Eats Le Cheval Blanc Auberge Sainte Catherine Le Relais d’Antan What to do The Cave Yuccas Cave des Amis de Trôo Les Caforts L’Église de St-Jacques-des-Guérets Farmers’ market Tourist information Explore before you go
Les Vernades Refuge Atop St-Trop’ A small path twists up the hillside above the house to a promontory. Far below you, in the distance, five kilometers as the crow flies: St-Tropez…. You contemplate the city laid out before you in miniature, the fury of the cars as they rattle and honk in their impatience to speed on. The flash, the swagger; giant billboards, mini carnivals. A Japanese motorcycle is heard revving to a hysterical whine. You smile: Still as fadas as ever, down there. Fadas in Provençal means crazed, on edge. And there couldn’t be a better word for the human comedy of teeming St-Tropez. With the song of the cicadas in your ears, you turn your back on the scene and slowly return to the hamlet, drawing deep breaths of thyme, rosemary, the scent of the pines. In the tiny settlement of Les Vernades, hidden behind the village of Grimaud, there is nothing to ruffle the côte d’azur. Just a few houses and a rural inn. The inn, or gîte, belongs to Alain Spada, the former mayor of St-Tropez, who built his refuge here with his own hands. A refuge he will rent out to a few rare tourists. You reach the hamlet of Les Vernades by a four-kilometer lane. When it rains, this can become impassable, requiring a long detour to get home. There, at an altitude of nearly 1,000 feet in the Massif of Maures, one of the loveliest spots in the South of France, there is silence, perhaps the sound of the wind and a few children playing. Five houses. A field. A cherry tree, an almond tree. A few dogs. Do your shopping at the market in Garde-Freinet and return to this haven of peace. You can light the logs in the huge fireplace or look out at the sublime landscape spread before the bedroom window. [END BOX] Paul Moreira is a TV journalist who creates investigative documentaries for Canal+. To book at Alain Spada’s inn at Hameau des Vernades, contact Gîtes de France. It is gîte rural number 1445, in the Var département (83). 01.49.70.75.75, www.gites-de-france.fr
Cassis Provence à la Pagnol Qui a vu Paris, et pas Cassis, n’a rien vu—“If you’ve seen Paris but not Cassis, you haven’t seen anything yet.” This local saying may sound a little pretentious, but once you behold the charming fishing town of Cassis, you may decide it’s no exaggeration. Only 30 kilometers (18.5 mi) outside the busy city of Marseille, Cassis is a quiet, easygoing town at the foot of the majestic red-rock Cap Canaille. With its narrow streets, earth-tone houses and Provençal street names, the city is like something straight out of a Marcel Pagnol novel. The local author, who penned best-sellers such as La Gloire de Mon Père, Le Château de Ma Mère and, most famously for the U.S. audience, Fanny, also used Cassis as a filming location for some of the movies based on his books. Although the town is now known for its Provençal charm—the harbor is lined with ochre, yellow and anise-green restaurants and cafés where people soak up the sun—Cassis first became famous for its limestone. The solid rock was used in the harbors of both Alexandria and Algiers and for the base of a landmark that’s much closer to home, the Statue of Liberty. There’s no better way to see the limestone cliffs than by visiting the calanques, natural harbors carved by time from the steep coastal bluffs. Hiking three or four hours down to the rocky inlets is rewarding, but a boat tour is a lot less tiring and eminently enjoyable. En route, you’ll see Les Roches Blanches, a hotel where Sir Winston Churchill spent time painting, and the peninsula owned by Paul Ricard, of Pastis fame. where to stay Hôtel Cassitel ** Le Jardin d’Émile Les Roches Blanches Château de Cassis where to eat A visit to Cassis isn’t complete without trying two local specialties: sea urchins, which are in season from mid-October to mid-April; and the local wine, the first in the region to receive the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée label. We recommend trying Domaine du Paternel and Château de Fontblanche. Sample these at Chez M. Brun, 2 quai Calendal, 04.42.01.82.66. For a romantic dinner with beautiful views of the city and the sea, head to Restaurant La Presqu’île,Quartier Port Miou, 04.42.01.03.77, www.restaurant-la-presquile.com. Chez César offers fine Provençal meals by the harbor.21 quai des Baux, 04.42.01.75.47. to visit the calanques Les Bateliers Cassidains how to get there From Marseille, drive the hills along the Mediterranean coast for a scenic route. You can also take the train to Cassis. A bus gets you to downtown, as the station is outside the city. Take number 2, 3 or 4, leaving approximately every 10 minutes.
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