Le 39V

Located in the 8th arrondissement's Triangle d'Or (Golden Triangle), Le 39V is a welcome new address in this plush part of town where there are few options between the alarmingly expensive haute cuisine tables and chain-gang eat-on-the-run restaurants. Perfect for business dining, it's also a lovely place for a really good meal of carefully prepared, top-quality French cooking. And chef Frédéric Vardon has just won a Michelin star in 2012 for this rooftop restaurant.

Vardon worked at Alain Chapel in Mionnay before moving to Alain Ducasse's stable of chefs for 14 years. He's a supremely accomplished classicist with a subtle but shrewd modern touch that comes through in his use of popular contemporary cooking techniques—steaming, grilling, spit-roasting and wok cooking.

The sixth-floor dining room has a soothing contemporary decor, and service is gracious and well drilled from start to finish. At dinner recently, a lawyer pal from Boston and I enjoyed first courses of grilled langoustines and raw sea bass dressed with lemon juice and a mimosa garnish before tucking into superb main courses—free-range chicken with crayfish in a gossamer sauce, and griddled Lozère lamb. Try the delicious cherry clafoutis with pistachio sauce or the chocolate soufflé with pepper for dessert.

39 ave George V, 8th, 01.56.62.39.05. €65 per person, without wine

Originally published in the December 2010 issue of France Today; updated in April 2012

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