Le Métropolitain

Although everyone loves the Marais, it’s one of Paris’s more under-performing areas for food lovers, so I was delighted when a friend who lives there introduced me to Le Métropolitain. To be precise, this isn’t an address that’s worth crossing town for, but rather a very pleasant little hole-in-the-wall for anyone who wants a good, affordable, casual meal on this turf. Arriving, I was amused by the Métro-themed decor, with maps of one of the world’s best subterranean transit systems all over the place, along with Métro style advertising posters—even the menu is designed like a subway map. Any fear that the clever theme might preclude good food disappeared when our starters arrived: an excellent terrine of shredded beef cheeks, foie gras and beets, and a velvety bacon flavored flan topped with a soft-boiled egg and richly flavored mushroom hash. Chef Paul-Arthur Berlan’s main courses were excellent, too: pluma (succulent Spanish pork) with carrots and ginger; and maigre (shade fish or drum fish) on a bed of smoky eggplant puree, decorated with dollops of red-pepper puree. Desserts included a superb pear tarte Tatin. The brief wine list is well chosen and fairly priced, and service is very good.

8 rue de Jouy, 4th, 09.81.20.37.38. Lunch menus €17, €32; à la carte €35.

Prices are per person without wine.

Originally published in the December 2011 issue of France Today