Strasbourg: Kobus

In Strasbourg, food lovers are abuzz over the opening of Kobus, which is being described as the Alsatian capital’s first Paris-style table bistronomique, or new-wave bistrot. Young chef Eric Kuhn’s cuisine du marché menu leads off with such cosmopolitan dishes as scallop carpaccio with a fresh mango brunoise or a luscious veal tartare with an “espuma”, or creamy foam, of mascarpone and artichokes. Then there might be a great fish catch-of-the-day or two, or meaty main courses like superb veal sweetbreads with a walnut crust sautéed in salted butter and served with fresh cèpes. Kuhn’s desserts are wonderful, too, including a heavenly tiramisu made with figs poached in red wine, and a crème brûlée with the Alsatian plums called quetsches.

The staff at Kobus

7 rue des Tonneliers, Strasbourg, 03.88.32.59.71. Fixed-price menus €17 (lunch), €22 (plat du jour), €29, €33 and €38. Prices are per person without wine. website

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. Find Hungry for Paris and more in our bookstore.

Originally published in the November 2010 issue of France Today; updated in February 2011