Antibes: L'Armoise

Though it’s no fun fighting your way through the inevitable traffic on the outskirts of the modern quarters of Antibes, it’s more than worth it to finally reach the delightful Old Town, which has one of the loveliest small outdoor markets in France and a terrific restaurant in L’Armoise, a vest-pocket bistrot where chef Laurent Parrinello turns out superb food in a small open kitchen. Parrinello’s menu makes brilliant use of local, seasonal produce and the local catch of the day. I’ve never had a meal here that has been less than excellent, and my most recent one was no exception. I started with one of the best risottos I’ve ever had in France, made with baby vegetables—celery, carrots, asparagus—and then tucked into a succulent slice of perfectly cooked lieu jaune (yellow pollack) imaginatively garnished with zucchini, cucumbers and a sublime tomato sauce. I had a hard time staying away from my friend’s plump grilled scallops with white beans, tomatoes and cebettes (green onions). Dessert was extremely good too—puff pastry filled with fresh raspberries, served with fromage blanc sherbet and dribbled with a sauce of strawberries, anisette and ginger.

Interior of L'Armoise

2 rue de la Tourraque, Antibes, 04.92.94.96.13 or 06.60.21.44.05. Menus €36, €42 and €62

Prices are per person without wine.

Originally published in the September 2010 issue of France Today

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. Find Hungry for Paris and more in our bookstore.