La Rochelle: Maison des Mouettes

Parisians often overlook lovely La Rochelle because they're drawn like mouettes (sea gulls) to the nearby Ile de Ré. The charming Atlantic port rarely figures on American itineraries either, but it's a brilliant summer weekend jaunt from Paris, since you can rent a bike at the train station to tour the city or get to some first-rate beaches. The restaurant not to miss is the excellent Maison des Mouettes, about ten minutes outside of town in the oyster-fishing hamlet of Aytré. With an interest in cooking that was first inspired by the dishes his fisherman father cooked up with the less commercial part of the day's catch, young chef Johan Leclerre went on to train with Jacques Cagna, Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Ducasse, and the Troisgros brothers Pierre and Michel. Ducasse had just offered Leclerre a job in New York when his aunt told him that a seafront restaurant was for sale in Aytré. Leclerre and his delightful wife Stéphanie visited the property and, amazed by the sea views, decided to drop anchor. Leclerre, who earned the coveted designation of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2007, is an especially gifted fish cook, so don't miss dishes like his langoustines tempura, cod poached in miso sauce, or sole and oysters façon crépinette.

1 rue des Claires, Aytré, 05.46.44.29.12. €40 per person without wine

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