Makoto Aoki

Paris continues to send out an irresistible siren's song for ambitious young chefs from all around the world but especially from Japan, which sends dozens of reverent, wide-eyed apprentices to the French capital every year. Many of them evolve from remarkable students into exceptionally gifted and subtle chefs, and Makoto Aoki is a perfect example. Aoki, who trained with Alain Senderens before opening a new restaurant in his own name, serves one of the best value lunch menus in Paris today. Having mastered the technical skills of a classical French culinary education, Aoki creates dishes that marry Gaul to Japan with brilliant subtlety. Lunching in this attractive dining room several weeks ago, I was bowled over by the way Aoki layered flavors in a dish as apparently simple as a Sicilian tomato salad, which became a creative treat with the addition of fresh fava beans, a judicious dosage of herring caviar and a few drops of Banyuls vinegar. Aoki's roast suckling pig lacquered with soy sauce, miso and green tea was also one of the best dishes I've had this year, and his baba au rhum was exceptional too.

19 rue Jean Mermoz, 8th, 01.43.59.29.24. Lunch menu €21.50, dinner €40-€60. Prices are per person without wine.

Originally published in the September 2009 issue of France Today.