Corneil

Paris's central 9th arrondissement is a wonderful place to prospect for good and reasonably priced neighborhood restaurants. It's just about as bobo (bohemian bourgeois) as they come, and bobos love both good food and good buys. A fine example of the bobo style is Corneil, a truly delightful little bistrot that has won a name for itself by serving a gargantuan côte de boeuf (rib steak) for two for the sweetheart price of €44. Stopping by on an Indian summer night, we feasted on roasted tomato gazpacho and homemade country terrine as starters, followed by the côte—served on a wooden cutting board with side dishes of sautéed potatoes and green salad—and homey desserts of pineapple-coconut crumble and chocolate-caramel tart. Diners not in the mood for slabs of red meat will be well served, too, since the menu also includes a classic rabbit in mustard sauce, John Dory in a tasty foie gras sauce and other appealing choices. Smiling service and well-priced wines add everything up to a great meal.

19 rue Condorcet, 9th, 01.49.95.92.25. €40 per person without wine

Originally published in the October 2009 issue of France Today

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